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Ylang
ylang-it sounds like a children's game or a toy. It's not,
but it is one of the most important essential oils used in
perfumes. The oil comes from the flowers of a ylang ylang
tree or, cananga odorata, and has had many uses in different
cultures over the centuries. In many places today, ylang ylang
is symbolic of sensual pleasure and seduction. The tongue-twisting
name means "flower of flowers" in Malay. The Philippine origin
of the word comes from alang ilang, which means "flowers that
flutter in the wind." People have used ylang ylang in a variety
of ways throughout history. Muslim women would burn the oil
to scent their harems, which in Muslim society, is the part
of the house or palace that is reserved for women. In China
the fragrance was used to purify the robes of the mandarin
(a member of an elite or powerful group or class). The purified
robes were then placed into a chest made from fragrant wood.
Only when a special occasion required their use did the robes
come out from the chest. When they were removed, the scent
was still strong, in fact, some of these chests have been
found in modern times, and the scent, although faint, can
still be detected centuries later. In Indonesia there is an
ancient tradition that continues today of spreading the ylang
ylang flowers across the beds of newlywed couples.
Ylang
ylang did not find its way into modern European perfumery
until the 19th century. It surfaced there first as an ingredient
in macassar oil. This oil was a highly popular hair preparation
product that was used primarily in Victorian times (c. 1840-1900).
There are several different types of ylang ylang trees. A
cultivated tree will grow to about 60 feet, while wild trees
can grow upwards of 80 to 95 feet. They have long hanging
stems with about 18 leaves on each stem. If you want to produce
the oil, the tree requires a tremendous amount of care. Every
two months workers must prune the branches. In the fall, when
the flowers are ready, they are handpicked, so as not to lose
any of the precious fragrance. The timing of the harvest is
very important. It is important that the flowers are picked
at the time when they will yield the greatest amount of oil.
The fragrance of the flower is narcotic, floral, sweet and
jasmine-like. However, the aroma of the flowers is not evident
until 2-3 weeks after they have blossomed. The color of the
flowers can be pink, mauve (pale bluish purple), or yellow.
The yellow flowers are considered the finest for extracting
the oil because they yield the most and best quality oil.
The flowers are ready to be harvested when the yellow of the
flower is at its most extreme and a slight red tinge emerges
in the middle of the petals.
Ylang
ylang trees are native to Indonesia and the Philippines. The
oil is generated primarily in Madagascar, Reunion, the Comoro
Islands and Sumatra. Steam or water distillation is the technique
used to detach the oil from the freshly picked flowers (yield:
1.5-2.5 percent).Ylang ylang oil is extracted into different
grades. Ylang ylang extra is the name of the first distillate.
This is the grade used in many high-class perfumes. Grades
1, 2 and 3 are the names of the three following distillates.
Blending ylang 1 and ylang 2 together produces a 'complete'
oil. Different grades of ylang ylang have different uses.
You can find ylang ylang 3 in soaps and detergents, for example.
Alcoholic drinks, soft drinks and desserts also use ylang
ylang as an ingredient. Ylang ylang oil can be very expensive
because, like many other essential oils, it takes many flowers
to extract a small amount of oil. In fact, it takes about
350-400 kilos of flowers to extract one kilo of oil, and each
tree renders only about 10 kilos of flowers per year.
Ylang ylang extra is a pale yellow, oily liquid
with a sweet floral-balsamic and slightly spicy scent. It
blends well with many other essential oils including rosewood,
jasmine, vetiver, bergamot, mimosa, and rose. Perfumers use
it as a top or middle note with a moist, grounding disposition.
You can find ylang ylang in many of the floral fragrances
that are on the market including Poison by Christian Dior,
Champs-Elysées by Guerlain, Acqua di Gio by Giorgio Armani,
and Escape by Calvin Klein. Perfume is not the only use for
ylang ylang oil. Many people use the oil to help with a number
of ailments. It is said to help reduce high blood pressure,
can alleviate anxiety and tension, and help with heart palpitations.
It also can help against depression, impotence, insomnia,
insect bites, and hair growth. However, aromatherapists warn
that ylang ylang should be used in moderation because it can
cause headaches and nausea in some people.
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