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It
is true that vetiver oil is an important ingredient in perfumery,
but it is not as well known as Vetiveria Zizanoides, vetiver
grass, the most important and most famous grass in the world.
Vetiver grass is used worldwide as a soil protection plant.
Its abundant lacework of rootlets secure the soil on mountainous
and volcanic slopes against erosion caused by torrential rains.
Because of its value, especially to third world countries,
whose retention of soil is precious, vetiver is grown in Indonesia,
Malaysia, The Philippines, Japan, Reunion, Angola, The Congo
Republic, Haiti, The Dominican Republic, Brazil, Argentina,
Guiana, Jamaica, Mauritius, and Martinique. Those rootlets
that bind the precious soil to the earth are the source of
an essential oil that is a comparatively recent product, though
the rootlets have been used for their fragrance since antiquity.
Vetiver oil is steam distilled from the cleaned
and washed rootlets which are dried, cut, and chopped, then
usually soaked in water before distillation. Reunion and Haiti
are the largest producers of vetiver oil. It is estimated
that at least 200 tons of vetiver oil are produced annually,
quite a lot for the comparatively little known oil. Though
it may not be well known to the public, perfumers are well
aware of its great value. It is said that vetiver, also called
vetivert and vetyver, is an almost unexplainable fragrance.
It would be like trying to explain only orange blossoms. It
seems like a spice. The oil, which in India is known as Khas,
has an earthy odor with an underlying violet and orris-like
sweetness. Its persistence makes it one of the finest fixatives
known. It is the basis for Mousseline, an Indian perfume,
and appears as the main ingredient in 36% of all western quality
perfumes, including Caleche, Chanel No. 5, Dioressence, and
Parure, and 20% of all men's fragrances. Another byproduct
of vetiver grass is vetiver resinoid, a semi-solid, plastic
mass of dark brown or dark amber color with a faint but persistent
odor. It has an excellent fixative effect, but also lends
a softness and rich body to perfumes of the heavier Oriental
type - fougeres, chypres, and crepe de Chines. In certain
types of rose base, vetiver resinoid is unsurpassed as fragrant
fixative.
When used as an emollient in aroma therapy,
vetivert is a deeply relaxing, soothing oil for the mind and
body. Its earthy or woodsy, smoky aroma is more pleasant when
diluted. It is said to reduce blood pressure and has sensual
properties. It blends subtly with lavender, sandalwood, and
jasmine as an oil, and blends well patchouli, clary sage,
mimosa, and ylang-ylang in perfume. The name "vetiver" caught
on with various perfume manufacturers who produced specific
perfumes with that name. They included Carven (1957), Givenchy
(1959), Lanvin (1964), and LeGalion (1969).
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