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Nothing
in this world is greater than a big heaping cone of good vanilla
ice cream. So sweet and rich, it attacks your taste buds in
a fury, filling you with satisfaction. Okay, perhaps there
are a few things that are better, but even you chocolate lovers
out there have to admit that it's pretty darn good. If you
think the taste is good, someone years ago figured a way to
translate that sweet, rich taste into smell. Vanilla, or vanilla
planifolia, is native to Central America and Mexico. Since
the day explorer Hernando Cortes was introduced to the substance
by the Aztecs in what is now Mexico City, vanilla has been
cultivated around the globe. The main production areas today
are in Madagascar, Indonesia, Mexico, Tahiti, Europe and the
United States.
Vanilla
grows best under filtered sunlight, and because it is a vine,
it requires support to grow. The jungles of Mexico fit the
description perfectly, but you must be careful with Mexican
vanilla because it is not always authentic (more on this to
come)Although other areas of the world have overtaken Mexico
as the largest exporter of vanilla, it still holds a special
place in its heart for the lone vine. Native people still
grow the vines with religious devotion, often having them
climb around their house. They make small crafts with the
beans that they then hang on the rearview mirror as an air
freshener. It is common to find some beans stashed among the
extra bed sheets in the linen closet to keep everything smelling
good. The process of extracting the resinoid from the beans
is a long and tedious one. Each flower on the vine produces
a single bean. These flowers must be pollinated by hand (except
in Mexico where small hummingbirds do the job). To do this,
workers use small, hand-carved sticks the size of a ballpoint
pen refill. Making things more difficult is the fact that
each flower will only last for a short time. The green capsules
on the vine are ripe for picking after eight or nine months.
Then they must be cured. The pod must be fermented and dried
to turn it into commercial vanilla. Freshly picked beans are
wrapped in blankets, then straw mats and are placed into an
oven for 24 to 48 hours. The beans are then spread out onto
mats under the hot sun, where they will 'sweat.' At the end
of each day, the beans are taken inside and stored in drums
overnight. After several weeks, the beans are moved to mesh
racks to begin the drying process. Each bean must be inspected
daily to find which ones are ready. After they are properly
dried, the beans are stored for at least three months before
being shipped.
Natural
vanilla is entangled in a struggle to stave off synthetic
vanilla. One ounce of synthetic vanillin has roughly the same
flavoring power as one gallon of natural vanilla, and the
cost is astronomically cheaper. This hasn't meant the end
for natural vanilla, however. Increased health awareness,
the shift of consumers back to natural products, and the increasing
gourmet ice cream market (who tend to use all natural products),
have kept the use of natural vanilla in check. Mexico, which
was once the undisputed king of vanilla production, has been
gaining a reputation as a place not to buy vanilla. Mexican
vanilla has been found to be commonly adulterated with extracts
from the tonka bean because they have a high amount of coumarin.
Coumarin has a scent much like that of vanilla, and it would
be difficult for someone without experience to tell the difference.
However, coumarin was banned in 1954 by the Food and Drug
Administration because they found it caused toxicity of the
liver in test animals. The EU Scientific Committee for Food
(SFC) carried out an extensive study review of the toxicology
of coumarin in 1994. They concluded that coumarin was carcinogenic
in rats when taken orally, and possibly in mice.
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