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Tagetes
Oil (Not to be confused with Marigold Calendula!) Marigolds
conjure up idyllic images of flower scented fields stretching
into a golden-red distance. However, these popular gardening
flowers, calendula officinalis, are not the same as tagetes,
although they are in the same family. Tagetes oil is produced
from the Tagetes Glandulifera and it is this oil we will focus
on for this article. The oil is obtained by steam distillation
just after the inflorescence of the crop and has a dark yellow
to orange-yellow color. Tagetes is mainly produced for the
world market and usage in South Africa (crop: July/August)
and Zimbabwe (crop: May/June), with additional production
in Egypt, India and limited quantities in Argentina (crop:
March-May), as well as Nepal and Madagascar.
This
oil's herbaceous-green odor with a sweet-fruity undertone
is often sought after, and sought after is the operative expression
here. As we have mentioned previously, we are not perfumers
and rarely make any judgment calls on samples being acceptable;
however, as brokers, we can definitely vouch for this essential
oil being extremely difficult to "get right" for each buyer/user.
This is apparently due to the high and volatile ketone content
of the oil..
Often
with Tagetes (and recently Davana oil) we are faced with the
most disagreeable of rejections for a submitted sample, having
to deal with flat out negativity such as: "No good, rejected,
too weedy, oily, too red, not red enough, unusual characteristics,
ending with the piece-de-resistance insult: "skunky." We are
still not quite sure how you determine that an oil is "skunky."
Do perfumers use the same method as the beer connoisseur who
determines his beer has been in the sun just a few hours too
long? Whatever it is, brokers like us continue to be puzzled
that so much can be wrong with one oil. Perhaps it is because
by nature, tagetes is a tricky and volatile oil that is used
in relatively high-end perfumeries where everything has to
be "just so" including, in many cases, the color. Whatever
the case, it is definitely an oil that causes us (and probably
QC's as well) a lot of angst. Aromatherapists are using and
recommending this essential oil for fungal infections, treating
corns, calluses and other disorders of the foot as well as
against candidiasis. It is also supposed to deter houseflies
- (but my fly swatter is a heck of a lot cheaper and has a
finite and visual effect!) Market: Currently, South African
and Zimbabwean material is in relatively short supply at origin,
however, with the new crop around the corner, we should be
seeing some relief. Pricing at this time is stable.
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