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Rosewood
oil, also known as "Bois de Rose," is steam distilled from
the chipped wood of Aniba Rosaeodora a tropical, medium-sized,
wild growing evergreen from the Amazon basin.As well as producing
the essential oil, rosewood is also used for building, carving
and French cabinet-making. Nowadays, most rosewood goes to
Japan for the production of chopsticks. Perfumers use this
oil as a middle note with a warm, caring temperament. It has
a sweet, spicy, floral, and lightly woody scent, and a pale
yellow to brownish color. Rosewood blends well with most other
essentail oils, especially citruses, woods, and florals.
Let's take a look at the various factors having
led to the decline in usage of rosewood oil. The first being
the introduction of synthetic linalool to replace rosewood
in the cheap fragrance sector in the early 1960's. Steffen
Arctander in his important tome (or as one man used to call
it- "The Essential oils Bible")- "Perfume and Flavor Materials
of Natural Origin," saw the writing on the wall in 1960 stating
that: "Bois de Rose today is fighting for survival in strong
competition with other essential oils and particularly with
synthetic linalool." For over 30 years, this essential oil
has continually declined in usage from a high of approximately
500 tons being exported from several South American producing
countries in the 1960's to an estimated 100 tons total production
(65 mts total exported) from the last sole producing and exporting
country, Brazil.
Currently, rosewood oil has a place in the
high end ingredient roster for top-of-the-line perfumes such
as Jicky, Le Dix, and Vol de Nuit. However, as we have seen
in the past and will in the future, it is profit margins and
ease of procurement that influence purchasing and ingredient
choices for future creations.
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