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Narcissus
Oil can be obtained from several species of the Narcissus
flower: Narcissus poeticus, N. tazetta, and N. jonquilla.
In perfumery, the May-blooming, fairly rare N. poeticus is
the most significant. This species originated in Persia (what
is now Iran), grows wild in and around Grasse, and is now
cultivated virtually all over Europe. In Greek legend, Narcissus
was a youth who committed suicide after falling in love with
his own reflection. His body then disappeared and was replaced
by the flower. This is not how the flower got its name, however.
The name is derived from the Greek "narce," which means 'to
be numb.' This name refers to the narcotic effects of narcissus,
which can be overwhelming at times. Narcissus is said to be
influenced by the magic of Venus, the goddess of love. It
has long been used to manifest new relationships or enrich
current ones.
In China, it is associated with acquisition
and good fortune. The ancient Romans used narcissus, then
a solid unguent, in preparing a fragrance that they called
Narcissinum. It also used by the Arabs in some of their early
perfumes, and to cure baldness. The French used it to combat
hysteria and epilepsy, while in India, the oil is applied
along with rose, sandalwood and jasmine, to the body before
prayer in temples. The white flower, also known as Poet's
Narcissus and Pheasant's Eye, grows to about 18 inches and
produce one or two blooms per stem. It has pure white petals
and a shallow, wrinkled, reddish or orange crown, and a strong
floral, pungent odor. The bulbs contain alkaloids that, if
eaten, can produce severe digestive problems including vomiting
and diarrhea, accompanied by trembling and convulsions. Narcissus
Oil used to be extracted by enfleurage. The newer method is
extraction with volatile solvents, which gives a concrete
and absolute. Using petroleum ether, the yield of concrete
from N. poeticus varies between 0.2 and 0.26%. Five hundred
kilograms of the flowers yields 1kg concrete, 300gr absolute
of the essential oil. Today, the absolute is produced primarily
in the Netherlands and in the Grasse region. It is very expensive
as well.
The scent resembles a blending of jasmine
with hyacinth. It is a very heady oil that has a profound
effect on the nervous system. It soothes nerves and relieves
stress and tension. However, in high doses, the scent can
cause headaches and vomiting in some people. Sometimes confused
with narcissus is jonquil. Although they are of the same species,
they are considered separately in perfumery. Jonquil is often
used as a top note component in fragrances. In the early 20th
century, perfumes containing narcissus notes were in vogue.
It fell out of favor, and production of the oil steadily declined
until about thirty years ago, when it had a resurgence in
many of the perfumes of the 70s (Balestra, Halston Night,
Samsara, etc.). In the past, narcissus was used in cosmetics
such as powder, lipstick and fragranced soaps. Now, it is
used in cosmetics primarily as a component of perfumes that
has been adapted for an entire line of products.
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