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The
mimosa originally traveled to France from its home in Australia,
an English colony at the time, to embellish the winter gardens
of Lord Brougham and his friends. Planted first in their exotic
gardens, the gardeners of the time were delighted at how easily
this wild mimosa adapted to its new environment. Specimens
of mimosa and eucalyptus made their way from Australia via
ship thanks to the efforts of English botanists collecting
cuttings of newly discovered plants.At the end of the century,
mimosa flowers were harvested to be added to bouquets sold
to travelers and shipped to selected florists in Paris. At
first, the cut mimosa blossoms didn't last long until Louis
Camette invented a process called "forcage" which is still
used today. Around this time, the perfumers of Grasse became
aware of this new regional flower and began to process the
blooms to extract their oils for use in perfume.
The
mimosa is a member of the legume family with a pod similar
to peas and lentils. There are three major species of mimosa,
those with long leaves, those with round bluish leaves, and
those with the typical jagged leaves. Although, more than
one hundred varieties grows on the Côte d'Azur, the most common
ones are the Acacia dealbata - a tree with delicate foliage
and clusters of ball-shaped fragrant yellow flowers, the Floribunda
or mimosa 4 season - it's an all terrain plant that is used
in most graft, the Longifolia, the Cultriformis, and the Motteana.
The name mimosa originally came from the Latin word mimus
(pantomime in the process of contracting), corresponding to
the behavior of its leaves that contract when touched. The
mimosa is also the symbol of security and of certitude since
ancient times. More than one hundred varieties of mimosa grew
in the surroundings of Grasse. Its wood is known for its ability
to withstand rot. Its seeds germinate easily, requiring only
heat and space. Contrary to the rest of nature's creations,
it will grow in ashes. As such, it symbolized that death is
not destruction, but rather a metamorphosis. Its bright golden
yellow is synonymous with light.
The
mimosa softens and ties the different notes of a perfume together.
Its characteristics are green, floral, and sweet. In 1947,
Farnesiana de Caron created the first great perfume with the
principal note of mimosa. Byzantine de Rochas and Amarige
de Givenchy also have mimosa as a primary component of its
fragrances. Today, when the weather conditions are favorable,
Grasse and its surrounding harvests treats approximately 150
to 200 tons of wild mimosa per year. The harvest occurs once
a year in February (the winter in France and the summer in
its country of origin, Australia), and as the mimosa is very
sensitive to weather variation, a cold winter can mean the
destruction of the entire production. Up to 0.8% of concrete
can be extracted from the original product via solvent, which
correspond to 8 kilograms of absolute per ton from the small
branches and the flowers treated. The concrete is then washed
out of its wax (75%) with alcohol to finally obtain the absolute
(up to 2 kilograms per ton treated). The Absolute of Mimosa
of Grasse has a market value of nearly 6000 FF (US$ 1000)
per kilogram.
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